| Seventh
                      Biennial Report of the State Engineer to the Governor
                      of Wyoming(Source: Excerpts
                      from the Wyoming State Engineer's Report for the Years  1903
                      and 1904)
 From Big Piney postoffice the route
                followed runs easterly to Green River, thence up that stream
                for some six miles, crossing the River at Luman's Ferry. The
                western bank of the River was followed from this point until
                within six miles of Burns, when a road was taken which leads
                towards Pinedale, on Pine Creek, the outlet of Fremont's Lake.
                Passing through Pinedale, camp was established on Fremon's Lake.
                The Wind River Mountains had been in sight from the hills north
                of Fontenelle, but the best view obtainable was from a point
                between Big Piney postoffice and Green River. At Fremont's Lake
                the foothills
                hide from view all but the summits of the higher peaks. Fremont's
                Peak is easily recognized from the sketches made by the members
                of the party of that early explorer. As Fremont's Lake is a beautiful sheet
                of water, so is Pine Creek a magnificant stream. Leaving the
                Lake in a broad, deep channel, with but little fall, it soon
                becomes a turbulent stream, pitching over one series of rapids
                after another. The opportunities for developing power along
                this stream have already been taken advantage of, and it will
                only be a matter of a few years when many streams of the same
                locality will be in like manner utilized. Fremont's Lake is about
                twelve miles long, with a maximum width of two or three miles.
                It will in time be utilized as a storage reservoir. The Government
                has already made some surveys which indicate that it can be converted
                into a storage reservoir cheaply, thus rendering it possible
                to irrigate a large area lying to the southeast. 
                
                  | "The
                      roads between Pinedale and Cora are almost impassable during
                      the irrigation season...we were advised to drive in one
                      of the ditches, which we did..."1903-1904
 |  From Fremont's Lake the route led westerly
                to Cora. The roads between Pinedale and Cora are almost impassable
                during the irrigation season. This we were told before leaving
                Pinedale, and it was impressed upon our minds every mile we
                traveled between the two places. It seems that irrigation is
                regarded as
                the chief essential and such incidental damage as may be done
                in connection therewith is a trivial matter. The mail carrier
                between the two points is able to perform his duty by riding
                a horse that can swim when necessary and travel in deep mud most
                of the time. for three-fourths of a mile the road leads through
                a lane. There are two ditches running parallel to each other
                for its entire length. The road has consequently suffered and
                we
                were advised to drive in one of the ditches, which we did. Upon
                arriving at Cora, we were informed that this portion of the road
                has been appropriately named "Boat Alley." The conditions described
                are not limited to this locality. There is not enough attention
                paid to keeping the roads in good condition. They should be located
                where the best and shortest road can be maintained. The county
                should obtain a right of way and the person who is responsible
                for making travel over them impossible or even difficult should
                be required to make some kind of a return to the public which
                he greatly inconveniences through carelessness. From Cora the route follows Willow Creek,
                a tributary of New Fork, to the divide between that stream and
                Green River, thence up Green River to Kendall. This latter point
                has been the center of timber operations on the head of Green
                River. The last tie and log drive down Green River had left Kendall
                ten days prior to our arrival and the cutting of timber without
                restriction had come to a sudden end. Forest Supervisor Jones
                maintains his headquarters at Kendall. He informed us that the
                snow is deeper there than it is either at Cora or at Green River
                Lake some twenty miles further up the river. The snowfall at
                Kendall is such as to cover the ground to a depth of from four
                to ten feet, while at Green River Lake it is possible for live
                stock to secure good grazing. 
 Wolves
                        in relation to stock, game, and the National Forest Reserves(Source:
                  Excerpts from 1907 "WOLVES
                    Stock, Game and the National Forest Reserves," by
                    Vernon Bailey, Assistant in Charge of Geographic Distribution,
                    Biological Survey, United States Department of Agriculture,
                Forest Service - Bulletin 72)
 The enormous losses suffered by stockmen
                  on the western cattle ranges and the destruction of game on
                forest reserves, game preserves, and in national parks through
                the depredations
                  of wolves have led to special investigations by the Biological
                  Survey in cooperation with the Forest Service, to ascertain
                the best methods for destroying these pests. The results appear
                in
                  the present report, which includes also field notes on the
                distribution, abundance, and breeding habits of wolves.  
                
                  | In
                      the upper Green River Valley of Wyoming, between the Salt
                      River and Wind River mountains - Forty old wolves, or approximately
                  one to a township, would seem a fair estimate of the number
              in this valley...- 1907
 |  The chief object of
                the report is to put in the hands of every hunter, trapper forest
                ranger, and ranchman directions for trapping, poisoning, and
                hunting wolves and finding the dens of young. If these directions
                are
                followed it is believed that the wolves can be so reduced in
                number that their depredations will cease to be a serious menace
                to stock raising. Prime wolf skins are worth from $4 to $6 each,
                enough to induce trappers and enterprising ranch boys to make
                an effort to secure them if a reasonable degree of success is
                assured. Stock owners need little encouragement to catch or kill
                wolves on their own ranges, at it is believed that the forest
                rangers will be able to keep them down on the forest reserves.
                Their complete extermination on the western range is not, however,
                to be expected in the near future, and it is only by constant
                and concerted effort that their numbers can be kept down sufficiently
              to prevent serious depredations.  WYOMINGIn the upper Green River Valley of Wyoming, between the Salt
                  River and Wind River mountains, wolves were apparently just
                  as numerous in March, 1906, as on a previous trip that I made
                  through the valley thirteen years before. Fresh tracks were
                  seen on the snow almost every day, usually of wolves in pairs,
                  but in one case of a band of nine. Between March 24 and April
                  21, 1906, four dens, containing 32 wolf pups, were found, with
                  2 old wolves at each den; and evidently there were two or three
                  other dens in the valley. Forty old wolves, or approximately
                  one to a township, would seem a fair estimate of the number
              in this valley...
 DESTRUCTION OF STOCK BY WOLVESCATTLE
 The stock killed by wolves is mainly cattle. Calves and yearlings
                are generally selected, but if these are not available, cows,
                and even full-grown steers, are killed. They are usually attacked
                from behind and literally eaten alive. Occasionally an animal
                will escape the wolf with a great piece torn out of its ham,
                while the wolf goes on to catch and kill another. The ranchmen
                in the wolf country maintain that a "critter' even slightly
                bitten by a wolf will die of blood poisoning, and many detailed
                instances
                seem fully to substantiate this. More cattle are therefore killed
                than are eaten. Evidently the wolves prefer freshly killed beef.
                In summer they rarely return for even a second meal from the
                same animal; but in winter, when in the snowy north the cattle
                are gathered into pastures or stables, they often return to a
              carcass until its bones are picked.
 In the Green River Basin, Wyoming, on
                April 2, 1906, Mr. Charles Budd had 8 yearling calves and 4 colts
                killed in his pasture by wolves within six weeks. At Big Piney
                a number of cattle and a few horses had been killed around the
                settlement during the previous fall and winter. At Pinedale members
                of the local stockmen's association counted 30 head of cattle
                killed in the valley around Cora and Pinedale in 1905, between
                April, when the cattle were turned out on the range, and June
                30, when they were driven to the mountains. In 1906 wolves were
                said to have come into the pastures near Cora and Pinedale and
                begun killing cattle in January on the 'feed grounds,' and Mr.
                George Glover counted up 22 head of cattle killed by them up
                to April 10. Just north of Cora Mr. Alexander, a well-known ranchman,
                told me that the wolves killed near his place in June, 1904,
              a large 3-year-old steer, a cow, 3 yearlings, and a horse. DESTRUCTION OF GAME BY WOLVESThe amount of game killed is even less easily determined than
                  of cattle, but, judging from the evidence obtained, wolves
                  kill far less game in the western United States than either
              coyotes or mountain lions.
 At Big Piney, Wyo, I examined wolf dung
                in probably fifty places around dens and along wolf trails. In
                about nine-tenths of the case it was composed mainly or entirely
                of cattle or horse hair; in all other cases but one, of rabbit
              fur and bones, and in this one case, mainly of antelope hair... 
                
                  | "Mr.
                      Glover has never found any evidence that elk had been killed
                      by wolves."- 1907
 |  Talking with hunters and trappers who
                spend much time in the mountains when the snow is on the ground
                brought little positive information on the destruction of elk
                or deer by wolves. Mr. George Glover, a forest ranger long familiar
                with the Wind River Mountains in both winter and summer, said
                that he had found a large blacktail buck which the wolves had
                eaten, but that he suspected it had been previously shot by hunters.
                In many winters of trapping where elk were abundant, Mr. Glover
                has never found any evidence that elk had been killed by wolves.
                Coyotes constantly follow the elk herds, especially in spring
                when the calves are being born, and probably destroy many of
                the young, but wolves apparently do not share this habit. It
                seems probable, however, that in summer the young of both elk
                and deer suffer to some extent while the wolves are among them
                in the mountains... Over the Central Plains region of the United
                States wolves in great numbers originally preyed on the buffalo
                herds, but the buffalo wolf has now become preeminently the cattle
                wolf. 
 New
                      Automobile Freight Truck service offeredRock Springs to
                        Pinedale in ten hours
 (Source: July
                        1909 "Automobile
                topics Illustrated" magazine)
 The Wyoming Auto Transit Company, which
                runs automobile stages from Rock Springs to Yellowstone Park,
                is preparing to make a test of an automobile freight truck. The
                distance from Rock Springs to Pinedale is 120 miles. It is expected
                to make the distance in ten hours with a cargo of four tons.  
 Pinedale,
                      Wyoming - "Vacation Land Supreme"(Source:
              Excerpts from circa 1930s, Pinedale, Wyoming, 13-page travel pamphlet
              Pinedale
              Commercial Club, Pinedale, Wyoming)
 Pinedale, Wyoming, situated on Highway
                  187 (the scenic Hoback Canyon route to Teton and Yellowstone
                  National Parks), is 103 miles north from junction with Lincoln
                  Highway (30) at Rock Springs, Wyoming. Rock Springs is the
                nearest rail point (on the Union Pacific Railroad). Hoback Canyon route (187) from Rock
                Springs to Yellowstone and Teton National Parks is an excellent
                highway with no long, steep or dangerous grades. This route traverses
                some of the most wonderful scenery in America. 
                
                  | Pinedale
                      has electricity, lights and power (water and sewer systems
                      under construction), and is county seat of Sublette County
                      - the largest cattle county in Wyoming...."- 1930s
 |  Pinedale, Wyoming, (elevation 7167 ft.),
                a modern ranch town, population 500, has electricity, lights
                and power (water and sewer systems under construction), and is
                county seat of Sublette County - the largest cattle county in
                Wyoming. Nestling in the pines at the base of the Wind River
                Range, Pinedale is surrounded by varied and delightful recreational
                facilities, and is the gateway to the Bridger Wilderness area,
                as well as to Yellowstone and Teton National Parks. It is the
                central outfitting point for auto and pack trips to nearby attractions. Pinedale stores carry complete stocks,
                and this is the central outfitting point for either summer or
                fall big game hunting. Pack trips over any portion of this vast
                wilderness of forest, lakes and canyons, with complete equipment
                furnished can be readily arranged. What a setting for a carefree vacation,
                far from the bustle and worries of city life. In this clear and
                invigorating atmosphere, with cool nights blankets are always
                comfortable, you will find new health and vigor. Fresh air, the
                finest tonic that Nature offers where sufferers from asthma or
                hay fever often find immediate relief.  For further information write: Pinedale
                Commercial Club, Pinedale, Wyoming.
 
 U.S.
                      189 - Vacation Trail"Coolest
                        Summer Route to the Switzerland of America"
 (Source: Excerpts
                from circa 1940s, 1-page tourism brochure, compliments
                of the Kemmerer Lions Club)
 U.S. 189 Vacation TrailCoolest Summer Route to the Switzerland of America
 In Northwestern Wyoming.
 For the most scenic trip
                to Yellowstone Park
 Grand Teton Park
 thru the
 UPPER GREEN RIVER VALLEY
 THE FAMED JACKSON HOLE
  Last Stand of the Old
                Fashioned Cattle ranches where the Roundup still rides
 Also a great sheep range country
 Crossing Old Immigrant trails
 Interesting coal mining districts
 Oil Fields, Petrified Forests
 Fossil Fish Beds near by
 Free Recreational Forest Camps
 Wild Game and Predatory Animals
 Many Side Trips
 Good Fishing at Many Points
 Many Mountain Lakes
 Travel Over 300 Miles Fine Oil Roads
 OPEN THE YEAR ROUND
 Vacation and Recreation in Summer
 Winter Sports
 Pinedale population: 650 Big Piney population: 300 LaBarge population: 150 Kemmerer population: 2,040 Jackson population: 1,043 
 Predation
                      and the Sage GrouseBig Piney, Wyoming Sage Grouse
                        Nesting Study - 1940, Warren J. Allred, Wyoming Pittman-Robertson
                        Range Specialist
 (Source:
                        Excerpts from January, 1942 Wyoming Game & Fish "Wyoming
              Wild Life" 
               Vol. VII, No. 1 )
 The nesting study in the Big Piney area
                  was made possible through a cooperative agreement between the
                  United States Grazing Service and the Wyoming Game and Fish
                Commission, assisted by Federal Aid in Wildlife funds. The services
                of one
                  Civilian Conservation Corps foreman and ten enrollees were
                  obtained from the Big Piney CCC camp for the period of one
                  week; and during
                  this time the above-mentioned individuals covered a strip of
                  ground one chain wide and 35 miles long, a tract equivalent
                  to 280 acres. The  
                
                  | "With
                      a natural predation of 80.9 percent, there is little wonder
                      that the grouse cannot sustain themselves. "- 1942
 |  surveyors moved forward in a line, not
                more than six feet apart, combing the country carefully; and
                21 nests were
                  located. This gave the country under study a nesting density
                  of one nest to each 13.3 acres. There is little information
                available with which a comparison might be made, but the density
                is believed
                  to be low. Colorado has reported one sage grouse nest to each
                seven acres, in some areas. Of the 21 nests located, 16 or 76.2
                per cent were found destroyed. One nest at first intact was found
                to be deserted a few days later, because of the presence of domestic
                cattle. This is destruction in reality, and increases the number
                of nests destroyed to 17, or 80.9 per cent. In three cases, the coyote, Canis
                  Iatrans,
                appeared to have been the cause of destruction. Two adult sage
                hens had been killed while incubating on the nest, and the eggs
                in each case had been destroyed. Feathers were scattered about,
                and coyote tracks were observed in the vicinity. Feathers, from
                a third hen, presumably killed by a coyote were found, but the
                nest itself was not located. The third nest, believed destroyed by
                a coyote, was well covered by overhanging brush. The contents,
                including eggs and nesting material, had been dragged from the
                nest, and trails left in the dirt by the predator, in dragging
                out the contents, were still plainly visible. The eggs were broken
                and the contents removed. Five nests destroyed by predaceous birds
                were observed. As only ravens were seen in the area, it was concluded
                that they were responsible for the avian depredation. In two
                instances, small holes were found in one side of the eggs. In
                the other three cases, egg shells were found in the tops of nearby
                sage brush clumps, indicating that the predators had transported
                the eggs there for consumption. The agent of destruction in the remaining
                eight nests could not be definitely ascertained, but it is believed
                that coyotes and ravens both played an important role. In the
                study area one young chick was found dead. Evidence indicated
                that it had been trampled. Cattle tracks were numerous, and
                the chick had died from internal injuries. Coyotes, then, were credited with responsibility
                for 14.3 per cent of the total destruction; ravens with 23.8
                per cent; and the remaining 61.9 per cent was unascribed, although
                evidence indicated that both coyotes and ravens had been at work.
                The average number of eggs in the undestroyed nests were 7.3. In an area of ideal habitat, with ample
                cover and water supply, the sage grouse population has decreased
                from thousands to a mere handful; and forest rangers and ranchers
                report that the decline is continuing, even under the present
                three-year-old State protective system. With a natural predation
                of 80.9 percent, there is little wonder that the grouse cannot
                sustain themselves. Ranchers in the area say they cannot even
                raise domestic chickens because magpies either destroy the eggs
                or kill the young chicks. The area will be studied again during
                the 1942 nesting season, with predators under control. A comparison
                will be made, and the results of the two studies will be enlightening
                and significant. 
 1941
                      Big Game Kill Sets RecordThe pronghorn was considered
                        almost extinct in Wyoming 25 years ago
 (Source:
                        Excerpts from March, 1942 Wyoming Game & Fish "Wyoming
              Wild Life" 
              Vol. VII, No. 3 )
 The 18,614 big game animals killed legally
                in Wyoming during the 1941 hunting season represent the heaviest
                game harvest yet recorded in the State. The previous record,
                set in 1940, was 14,359 animals taken. The 1939 figure was 8,258
                animals. 
                
                  | "The
                      pronghorn, for example, was considered almost extinct in
                      Wyoming 25 years ago."- 1942
 |  It will be noted that the 1941 number
                represents more than 100 per cent increase in animals killed,
                over a three-year period. Such an expansion is unusually large
                and significant, yet there is nothing in it to alarm the conservationist.
                Factors accounting for the heavier yield are varied, the reasons
                behind it sound. It did not result from blind, uncontrolled slaughter
                of game animals, but rather from a carefully planned and controlled
                harvest based upon a long-range program of use, formulated with
                the assistance of Department and Federal wild life experts familiar
                with Wyoming conditions. These factors might be listed, in order
                of probable importance, as follows: 1. Increase in game populations. Pronghorn
                antelope, moose, and mountain sheep, once so far depleted in
                Wyoming that some naturalists despaired of their being restored
                to a
                point where they could be hunted again, have increased gradually
                under a 25-year program of closed seasons and rigidly controlled
                hunting seasons. The pronghorn, for example, was considered almost
                extinct in Wyoming 25 years ago. This year, 5,630 antelope hunting
                permits were issued during the regular hunting season, and results
                of over-population became so acute in five counties that a special
                three-week summer season was declared. Elk and deer have also
                increased, as the comeback of other game species has acted to
                reduce pressure upon them, somewhat. The bear was added to the
                list of game animals three years ago, increasing the number in
                the category still more.  2. An increase in the number of hunters.
                This trend may be influenced by the growing population of big
                game hunting, and by the present rising costs of meat products. 3. Range conditions. Winter range abundance
                is the dominant factor determining the number of big game animals
                any given area will sustain. It therefore determines the size
                of the harvest necessary to keep population and food supply in
                balance. Many of our game ranges were depleted by excessive numbers
                of domestic stock before game animals were restored to a point
                where they became a factor. Thus the game constitutes an additional
                burden on land already suffering from insufficient plant cover
                and soil erosion. To prevent a loss in game population by starvation,
                it has been necessary at times to increase kill in certain localities.
                This is accomplished by adding to the number of permits issued
                for hunting the controlled species, and, in the case of deer,
                authorizing open doe seasons in over-crowded regions. 4. Longer hunting seasons... 5. Increase in hunting area... 6. High success ratio... 7. Closer check-up on hunters... ...average elk antler spread in the
                Big Horn Mountains was 31 inches, as compared with 36-inch spread
                on elk taken from the Jackson Hole area. 
 Sublette
                      County and the Bridger Wilderness"Welcome
                        to Vacation Land"
 (Source:
                        Excerpts from a circa 1960s, 28-page tourism pamphlet,
                        compliments of Rivera
                Lodge, Mr. and Mrs. W. A. "Buzz" Burzlander, Pinedale,
              Wyo)
 Sublette County . . . Where
                the West RemainsFollow the trails of the pioneers - make Sublette county your destination!
 Sublette county, of which
                Pinedale is the county seat, is preeminently a cattle country
                and therefore is not as generally known as other highly publicized
                vacation centers of the West, yet because of the abundance of
                game in this region was the favored spot of early explorers,
                trappers and traders who made this section headquarters for their
                vast operations that extended for a radius of hundreds of miles
                in all directions... 
                
                  | "...the
                      Wind River Range with its myriad of peaks, streams, canyons,
                      lakes, forests and grassy meadows is "so stupendous,
                      so colossal, so awe inspiring: that it defies all attempt
                      to draw a word picture of its grandeur. Comparison is futile
                      since no other section of the Rocky Mountains, or the world
                      for that matter, even remotely resembles or rivals it..."- 1960s
 |  Pinedale, Wyoming, is a
                typical town of the western cattle country - not merely where
                the "west lingers," but WHERE THE WEST IS!  An annual rodeo is a "rarin'"
                event that gives local cow-waddies and cowgirls an opportunity
                to exhibit their skills. The Pinedale rodeo is rated as one of
                the best in the West. Top riders of the various outfits enter
                into spirited contests and present their best to carry off honors
                for their ranch. Dudes and dudines, many of whom are expert riders,
                also enter into the sports of the show with a vengeance and provide
                additional color... To borrow a hackneyed phrase
                from movie publicists, the Wind River Range with its myriad of
                peaks, streams, canyons, lakes, forests and grassy meadows is
                "so stupendous, so colossal, so awe inspiring" that it defies
                all attempt to draw a word picture of its grandeur. Comparison
                is futile since no other section of the Rocky Mountains, or the
                world for that matter, even remotely resembles or rivals it... Close by the DeSmet monument
                (south of Daniel) is a monument marking the last resting place
                of Pinckney Sublette, one of five brothers whose activities were
                prominent in early western history. Sublette's body was first
                interred on the banks of Fontenelle Creek, southwest of LaBarge,
                in 1828. In 1897, during a St. Louis law suit to establish the
                heir of his brother, Solomon, the bones were exhumed and taken
                to St. Louis to establish his death. For nearly 40 years they
                were in the vaults of the clerk of court, when the court ordered
                them returned to Wyoming. Re-interment was on July 4, 1936, in
                the county that bears the family name. "Dude Ranch" is
                not an expression that carries a clear-cut meaning to everyone,
                for
                a dude ranch is neither a summer hotel nor a farm where dudes
                "ranch." In the mountains of the West every farm is
                a ranch; they vary in size, too, from the small ranch to hundreds
                of acres,
                and, in the case of some of the stock and grain ranches, even
                larger. Most of the ranches are in settings of appealing beauty
                with mountains, lakes and streams in their very yards, or at
                least close by. Their hospitality is far more genuine, spontaneous
                and personal than that of an ordinary summer resort. Theirs is
                a heritage that is genuinely American. Many eastern families
                have for years been spending their vacations at these ranches,
                riding in Western cowboy saddles, hiking, fishing and hunting
                in the real Western outdoors. Visitors or guests at the ranches
                are honorably referred to as "dudes," hence "dude
                ranches" -
                a ranch where "dudes" are entertained. The rancher
                is a "dude
                wrangler." He, his cowboys, and the rest of his business
                associates are the "outfit." For further information
                about Pinedale and Sublette County, write or contact the Secretary,
                Pinedale Lions Club, Pinedale, Wyoming. Booklet cost 30 cents
                each. 
 Reblazing
                      the Lander Trail"With
                        hard work and a little dynamite, the project has been
                        completed"
 (Source:
                    Summer 1965 "Our Public Lands" Bureau
                    of Land Management publication. Story by Jack Bryant,
                    Resource Utilization Specialist, Cheyenne, Wyoming, PDF-4.7MB.
                    The Lander Trail goes through southern Sublette County, passing
                    just north along Hwy 351, through the Pinedale Anticline
                    gas field, through the Big Piney ballfields and directly
                    through the Sublette County Fairgrounds Ag Center building,
                    crosses through the Big Piney airport, and west over into
                    South Piney canyon. Many portions are still passable today,
                    in 2010, with 4-wheel drive vehicle, mountain bike, ATV,
                    horseback or on foot. Maps are available from the Pinedale
              BLM office.)
 Wagon wheel ruts carved deep, marked
                and unmarked graves, names etched in rock-signposts of history
                left on Wyoming's landscape. Here, within a short generation,
                the Mountain Man and his Rendezvous became an epoch of the West
                and the trails were blazed for emigrants to follow. For nearly
                half a century following the close of the great fur trade of
                1841, thousands upon thousands of persons trekked west- and the
                Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail, Overland Trail, and other travel
                routes began their march into the history books. Now, more than 100 years later, public
                interest in the historic trails that won the West is blazing
                once again. Efforts to identify and permanently mark these historic
                pathways are underway, and the Bureau of Land Management is helping,
                as are other public agencies. The story of the Lander Cutoff
                of the old Oregon Trail is a good example. From 1843 onward, the Oregon Trail was
                trekked by man and beast in ever increasing numbers. From the
                eastern takeoff points of St. Louis and Independence, Mo., travelers
                wended their way across the plains of Nebraska Territory into
                the high country which is now Wyoming. Rough country,  
                
                  | "On
                      leaving famed South Pass in western Wyoming, an easy pathway
                      across the Continental Divide, the trail passed through
                      rolling sagebrush covered hills to the Big Sandy River.
                      From this point to the Green River lay one of the trail's
                      worse sections. Alkaline desert plains stretched for almost
                      50 miles. Water was scarce and feed for livestock even
                      scacer. Once the Green River was reached, ferries had to
                      be used, as it flowed swift, wide, and deep. The price
                      for using a ferry was high and the waiting line long..."- 1965
 |  treacherous
                  rivers, and hostile Indians were taken in stride. Going Was SlowOn leaving famed South Pass in western Wyoming, an easy pathway
                  across the Continental Divide, the trail passed through rolling
                  sagebrush covered hills to the Big Sandy River. From this point
                  to the Green River lay one of the trail's worse sections. Alkaline
                  desert plains stretched for almost 50 miles. Water was scarce
                  and feed for livestock even scarcer. Once the Green River was
                  reached, ferries had to be used, as it flowed swift, wide,
                  and deep. The price for using a ferry was high and the waiting
                  line long. On top of these hardships, the "Mormon Rebellion"
                  made many emigrants uneasy. Safety and time demanded that a
                  more direct route be found to Fort Hall and City Rocks in Oregon
                  Territory.
 As a result of public sentiment, a post
                and military road was authorized by Congress in 1856, with Chief
                Engineer Fredrick W. Lander of the Department of the Interior
                starting field surveys for the wagon road in the spring of 1857.
                During the summer months, he explored the old Oregon Trail southwest
                from South Pass by way of both Fort Bridger and the Sublette
                Road farther north. Finding these routes not suited to improvements,
                he surveyed and staked out an entirely new route, heading northwest
                from South Pass. In all, he traveled some 3,000 miles by horseback,
                discovered some 16 mountain passes, and charted the Bear River
                and Salt River Mountain ranges. By the time winter came, Colonel
                Lander was ready to start roadbuilding. Completed in 1858Early in the spring of 1858, Lander gathered his men, hired more
                  from several Mormon settlements, and started the business of
                  building his new road. First, however, he held a pow-wow with
                  the famous Shoshone Indian Chief Washakie. In a swap for some
                  horses, he secured firearms, ammunitions, blankets, and trinkets,
                  a treaty and right-of-way for the new road from the Sweetwater
                  River to Fort Hall. By the close of September, Lander's Cutoff
                  was completed.
 The point of departure of Lander's Cutoff
                from the Oregon Trail is itself steeped in history. Here, in
                1847 Brigham Young and his men, while returning to winter quarters,
                met a large emigration party and the "Feast in the Wilderness"
                was held. South Pass StationKnown as Gilberts Station when Lander started his road, it soon
                  was called South Pass Stage Station, serving as a rest stop
                  for the famous Concord Stages as they rolled westward. The
                  rapid staccato of hoof beats, as the Pony Express rider and
                  his horse arrived and disappeared, were also heard at this
                  historic site. It served as a telegraph station for the first
                  transcontinental line in 1861.
 From 1862 to 1868 a unit of the 11th
                Ohio Volunteers was garrisoned at South Pass Station to protect
                the emigrant trains and stages using Lander's Cutoff and the
                Old Oregon Trail. Shortly after the troops abandoned the Station
                it was burned to the ground by the Indians. Later rebuilt, it
                was burned again. Today, this site lives in history as the "Burnt
                Ranch." Upon completion of the Lander Cutoff,
                large numbers of emigrants to Oregon Territory made use of it,
                as did trail herds of livestock. At the close of the Indian Wars
                in 1877, cattle herds from Oregon move eastward over the Lander
                Road to meet the railroad and to stock Wyoming ranges. Among
                the first outfits to settle along Piney Creek, in what is now
                Sublette County, Wyoming, belongs to Ed Swan, Otto Leifer, D.B.
                Budd, Hugh McKay, and A. W. Smith. 
                
                  | "The
                      last wagon to take the Lander Road was seen in 1912."- 1965
 |  With the coming of the first transcontinental
                railroad in the early 1860's, travel over the Cutoff rapidly
                declined. The last wagon to take the Lander Road was seen in
                1912. As the years rolled by, the Oregon Trail
                and the Lander Cutoff became only memories - recalled in history
                books and western novels. Recently, however, many people began
                to show interest in preserving the trail. Combined with the knowledge
                and zeal of primarily one man - Jim Harrower, a past president
              of the Sublette County Historical Society - things began to happen. BLM Pitches InJim Harrower told the story of neglect to the local BLM office
                  in Pinedale, Wyo. He took it up with BLM's National Director,
                  Charles Stoddard, during his visit to the Pinedale area on
                  other matters. Soon, BLM ordered bronze plaques and concrete
                  marker posts.
 Harrower and other members of the County
                Historical Society went over the Lander Cutoff trail on the ground.
                Where it couldn't be followed, they got the help of BLM men in
                pouring over the public land records. Places to put the markers
                were spotted and the concrete posts were hauled to nearby sheds
                or barns. Ranchers, local citizens and all able-bodied men that
                could be corralled were called on to help put the markers in
                place. With hard work and a little dynamite,
                the project has been completed. Now, history "buffs", just
                plain tourists and local residents of western Wyoming can walk
                in the footsteps
                of the early pioneer emigrants. They'll find it a most rewarding
                experience.
 |